CONTENTS
 

Impressum

Vol.11  Issue 08/03, 14.08.2011

Impressions Haute Couture F/W 2011 Part 2

Collections Didit Hediprasetyo & Eric Tibusch

Didit Hediprasetyo

When he hears the notes of Debussy's Clair de Lune, Didit Hediprasetyo does not see the predictable parade of graceful ballerinas. He "hears" the beautiful imperfections of the moon's surface; he dreams of a beauty in chiaroscuro; he imagines organic chords of vibrant white, mastic grey and lichen green... A restrained musicality that inspires him to a more womanly look, a couture aspiring to clean lines and a sharp, personal elegance.

Nothing is smooth or literal in this silhouette with its delicately twisted classicism. There is a feeling of grain, texture and relief in this creased cotton puffed up with tulle; in this men's suit gabardine worked in ruffles on a strapless top; in the sublime green velvet of a tube skirt that burns into the retina; in this duchess satin randomly embroidered with braid buttons evoking the craters of the Moon... Even the swan's feathers covering a spectacular coat display a rough touch, doing away with any hint of mushy sweetness.

While Didit likes to exploiter the register of couture cuts, his wardrobe is punctuated with varied lengths: hems brush the ankle, cut off the shins or hobble the knees. Above all, he instils his sharp sense of modernity into this tailor-made luxury, through a jersey T-shirt worn with a straight skirt encircled with spotless feathers. Short jackets mime the appearance of a perfecto. A cropped trench coat is cut out of Songket, the traditional Indonesian brocade shot through with silver thread. And - the ultimate subversion - a silk dress with marbled effects reveals patch pockets. The shock of cultures, the chic of a certain coolness.

Eric Tibusch

5th Anniversary Collection / No Title

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