CONTENTS
 

Impressum

Vol.11  Issue 08/02, 07.08.2011

Impressions Haute Couture F/W 2011 Part 1

Collections Christophe Josse & Georges Chakra

Christophe Josse

Clothing is a construction. Finery that protects and reveals. Christophe Josse 2011-2012 Haute-Couture echoes the fascinating work of the armour exhibited at Les Invalides Army Museum.

Metal sheaths with complex joints, Christophe Josse has kept to the spirit, borrowing a few construction details as well as the metallic sheen. But it is on the method used to achieve lightness and fragility that the designer stamps his mark. The relief of the platinum guipure hints at effects of embossed metal, the python scales take on a tin patina, those of the crocodile, the reflections of a gun barrel.

Despite the extreme lightness of a sleeveless gauze tunic like a featherweight coat of mail, or the extinct brilliance of metallic paper in the manner of a survival blanket veiled in black tulle, Christophe Josse's autumn-winter 2011-2012 Haute-Couture advocates a certain grimness, a translation, in the second degree, of the protective virtue of a warrior's armour. The seams with their ergonomic lines that create the shoulder or trace the bust come from the articulated constructions of tho original armour.

Faithful to the concept of protection, a black varnished coating flows over flannel giving off a deep, lacquered reflection reminiscent of fresh tar, juxtaposed with old lace or sphinx grey. Lustrous black or gold painted cock feathers delicately catch the light, similar to the oxidized spangles on a scabbard, like reflecting scales.

Only the ruby, Prussian blue or amethyst tinted muslins, contrive with the brush strokes of the hand-painted black silk, to produce sumptuous but subtle chromatic surprises.
A further contrast, there are no trousers in this wardrobe. Short or long dresses are the only armour in this Amazon couture.

Georges Chakra

Latest News, Collections and
Fashion Trend Information see Title-Page

To the general Fashion Fairs Calendar 2011
Links to Fair Organizers