CONTENTS
 

     

 

Impressum

Vol.15  Issue 05/00, 03.05.2015

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Photos : Copyright © 2015, fashionfreak. All rights reserved. Text : AGL;ILJA.

 

 

 

Impressions Haute Couture S/S 2015 Part 4

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS / ILJA

 

 

 Fashionfreak ! The Fashion People Site

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS Haute Couture Collection S/S 2015

 

 

 

 

 

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS S/S 2015

 

 

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS S/S 2015

 

 

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS S/S 2015

 

 

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS Collection 024 S/S 2015

Reliving my memories as an adolescent in Brazil, it is my sensations of freedom, of galloping through the countryside on horseback or swimming, that are still the most vivid. It is these images of nature and the euphoria of the outdoors that gave me the range of colors for this collection, the colors of the stones and gemstones from Brazil, as limpid and changing as the rivers and the sea in which I bathed. It is this universe which inspired me for the creation of the porcelain pieces which I created in collaboration with the Manufacture de Sevres.

In this state of mind I imagined a very rippling collection composed of fluid, enveloping forms: the coats, for example, are worn with nonchalance, like dressing gowns, the long sheath dresses are largely slit, the ample evening kimonos and evening trousers are worn open, and the trousers are immense and fluid like pajamas...! have deployed the ensemble in a semi-monochrome range of greens and blues traversed by red and vivid yellow, with a few touches of grey or camel recalling earth hues and mineral textures.

For the construction, I paid great attention to the shoulders of the structured jackets curved like riding saddles. The curves and size of certain sleeves are intended to emphasize the finesse of the hands whereas others are cut in a sabre shape, for a more energetic body language. The scarf collars and floppy neckties knotted a la 'apache' evoke the warlike audacity of the Amazons, but with humor and imagination.

Men in this collection have the same relaxed attitude. They wear clothes in the way Africans adapt their clothing around their body, like tribal robes, with the same boldness in colorful associations and sensuality in the way to drape: a controlled baroque.

This world of forms, materials and colours is wilfully strong and dynamic. It brings to life a type of woman with a natural, anti-bourgeois elegance, a woman I would like to compare to the flamboyant personality of Niki de Saint Phalle, an artist whom I admire in many respects. Firstly, because Niki drew inspiration from Gaudi for her sculptures, borrowing his expressive, revolving lines as I did when taking my first steps in fashion design in Barcelona after deciding to turn from architecture to Couture. But above all because I regard her as a model of a free woman, in complete harmony with her time, extremely feminine in her gestures and presence yet putting herself on an equal footing with men. Her forceful intelligence and intransigence in her art enabled her to forge an impressive oeuvre with a strong, subtle and popular message for humanity.

This entire collection is dedicated to the infinite elegance of women and men who know what they want: control their strength so that we can at last talk about love again...

 

 

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS S/S 2015

 

 

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS S/S 2015

 

 

Atelier GUSTAVOLINS S/S 2015

 

 

 

 

 

Ilja Visser S/S 2015

 

 

Ilja Visser S/S 2015

 

 

Ilja Visser S/S 2015

 

 

Ilja Visser S/S 2015

Ilja Visser presented her new ‘Tournavolta’ collection inspired by motion at Paris Haute Couture Week at Garage Lübeck.

Tournavolta is a story about rotating motion in nature. Only manmade movement has perfect angles and straight lines, while nature has irregularity, curves and twisting volumes that decorate our planets surface and atmosphere. Perfection might be a concept invented by mankind, but nature has the most beautiful logics and balance simply by just being. Nature and life with its beautiful and divine balance form the main inspiration for this collection.

Expressing these contrasts in colors, materials and shapes, the wearer of Tournavolta is wrapped in a beautiful experience, connecting the body with the philosophy of living and growing things. Chunky, brushed and graphic materials in big volumes mixed with smooth and fluid shear silks. Moss landscapes translated in funky jacquard, intense golden dust devils mixed with holographic earthly oils in fluid artworks, printed on cocoon shaped silk dresses and skirts. With accents of intense saffron and waves of rusty pink, the green glows and shadows are accentuated by intense passion and energy. From the highest skies to the deepest oceans, nature’s (e)motions form patterns that can be found in the collection of Tournavolta.

The collection captures a turning and folding motion with a very multidimensional approach, in elegant materials with bright and fresh accents. The unexpected placement of clean pleats and cutlines, in combination with the natural volumes and shapes, express the subtle elegance of beauty that can only appear when it exists and grows, naturally.

About ILJA
Dutch fashion designer, Ilja Visser, embarked on her career in fashion by attending the School of Arts in Arnhem, the Netherlands. Studying Fashion Design led her to New York for internships at Donna Karan and Maria Cornejo where she acquired her fine skills of tailoring.

In 2009, the fashion house was established, under the name the "Ilja Visser Group", located in Amsterdam on the Prinsengracht. In 2011, Ilja became the first Dutch designer to receive the Cultuur Mode Stipendium award from the Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds (Prince Bernhard Cultural Foundation) for her innovation and talent within The Netherlands.

In 2013 the label ILJA made its debut during the Paris Fashion Week with the presentation of the Ikebana collection. The Lumina collection was presented at the Dutch Residency during the Haute Couture Week in Paris in July.

ILJA is sold notably among others at the Cartel in Dubai, PIAFF in Beirut, My Beautiful Dressing.com.

 

 

Ilja Visser S/S 2015

 

 

Ilja Visser S/S 2015

 

 

Ilja Visser S/S 2015

 

 

 

 

 

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